Sub Cultures influencing fashion

Sub Cultures influencing Fashion through history

Fashion is a depiction of perceptive art with touch of practicality. Fashion represents myriad socio-economical, geographical, psychological and cultural aspects of an individual’s life. As we have a look back in the historical grandeur of this multi-faceted industry, we see that there have been numerous trends, fads, comebacks and classics across the past century. It is usually very surprising to people that staples today were an invention or a controversy someday. Fashion is also the reflection of the progress we have made today and the road into the future that we have travelled yet so far. Can you possibly imagine any periodic era or event without emphasis on the costumes of that time? It is difficult to do so, as fashion is utilitarian as well as personal expression. It helps us decode an individual’s thought process, mood and also rank or status. It is impossible to pour in on fashionable inventions and achievements of this past century in just a meagre article.

As I talk about fashion as a movement, the most impactful have been the 20^th and 21^st century and also most uncertainly fickle. We have seen most changes in fashion since late 19^th century till date than any other era. Of course, social, political and economic revolutions have affected it majorly. Starting from the early 20th century, there were major cultural influences from the Victorian Era of the late 1800s. The Ascots, the Edwardian “pouter pigeon” corsets and the Belle Époque firmly highlighted the era. Most popular were the Gibson Girls of this era with their exaggerated femininity and perfection, portrayed as a satire by illustrator Charles Gibson.

 This was the age of Art Deco and Art Noveau bringing a new independence among the fairer sex.  The industrial revolution bought many changes too. The leg-o-mutton sleeves and shirtwaist got very popular. Then the First World War bought certain changes among folks.

The elaborate fashions were trimmed down, couturiers like Paul Poiret and Jacques Docet closed their doors. The hems kept rising for practicality and mobility. Due to industrialization traditional textiles and crafted garments gave way to synthetic and factory made ones.

 As the War ended, then came the opulence of the ‘Roaring Twenties’. The upheavals of war created a schism between prevailing core traditions and the brand new age. The great Jazz Age of the 1920s had excessive wealth and nonchalance. There were numerous illustrators, artists, writers, filmmakers influenced by the “Flapper girls”. The Flapper dress was boxy and sporty usually worn with a bob pixie. Actress Louis Brooks was a famous flapper girl. Due to new love for Tennis and other sports, the famous Lacoste shirts had launched. Fitzgerald, Hemingway, Dali were just few people influenced by these Flappers. Also this was the height of the surrealist movement, influencing the eccentric Schiaparelli to channel her edginess and opulence in her garments. Women felt liberated and very few jewellery were adorned. This is when Chanel launched her costume jewellery paired with the famous Little Black Dress. Louis Cartier also gained fame by crafting luxuries stones and jewels.

   

As the jazz age highlighted with Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald was in full swing, the stock market majorly crashed, bringing in The Great Depression. Followed by the war, fashion was simplified. Dresses were sewed at home, preposterous taxes were imposed. Affordable styles were made and hand me downs were passed. The luxurious designs were still prevalent among the upper echelon of the society. Madeline Vionnet’s bias-cut drape and halter gowns were immensely popular in the 1930s. Orientalism was popular throughout the world.

   

 Parisian fashion during this time went into stage of hibernation. The forties bought the power dressing and new look, by Christian Dior, with its short full skirt and removable Bolero jackets. The double breasted jacket with padded shoulders was also popularised. Edward Molyneux, Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell created the Victory Suit for women. There was a rebirth of elegance and international linkages were strengthened. In the 1950’s people were influenced by Hollywood and Presley’s Rock and Roll.

 

Poodle skirts and flannel shirts were common. Hourglass silhouette was accentuated especially in lower half. Then came the 1960s, with the controversial Vietnam conflict and crazy influence of The Beatles swaying people like the London Swing. Civil Rights had a huge impact on fashion. Jackie (Kennedy) had popularised the famous Pillbox hats. Yves Saint-Laurent had huge great success in this period. The seventies saw a huge African influence with the popular corn rose hairstyle. Bell bottoms and animal prints were very popular.

     

The disco was popularized with movies like Grease and Saturday Night Fever. The A line dresses were common too. In the 1980s, had Pinstripe blazers, headbands, scrunchies, high socks, denim wear and exercise wear was popular. Metal and punk style became popular. The 90s saw neon colours, Grunge, Goth and leggings became popular. Hip-Hop had major influence in pop culture. Prep Dressing was popular by Alicia Silverstone in Clueless.

               

Aniston (Rachel) and Lewinsky haircut was very popular. This became the start of the technology era. The bare mid-riff was a common trend. Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford became popular around the 90s. The death of Kurt Cobain and Princess Diana had a major impact on the world. 2000’s had straightened hair, low rise jeans, thongs etc. were very influential. As we see sub-cultures throughout the history had immense impact on fashion.